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Feeler....Built Ford Dana 44 front
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Feeler....Built Ford Dana 44 front
Thinking about selling my front axle to finance parts to build my new 60.
8-lug High Pinion Driver's drop Ball joint axle from 1979 F250. (Same Brakes and spring spacing as the coveted 78/79 D60) Tubes have thicker wall thickness than the average D44, 3/8" I think. Disc brakes with dual piston calipers.
Yukon 4.88 gears, Full Detroit, Alloy USA inner shafts, Longfield 300M U-joints, Superior EVO series stub shafts, High steer arms on both knuckles, Warn Standard locking hubs. also have a set of drive flanges from a full time 4x4 Wagoneer. Tie rod and drag link made from 1.5" .250 wall DOM with QA1 3/4" heims. Stock Diff cover with a piece of 1/4" plate welded on the front.
I have wheeled on this axle for a little over a year, and since I have owned it I have replaced ball joints, wheel bearings, carrier bearings, and spindles.
The Bad:
When I drilled the passenger side knuckle for the high steer arm, I drilled the holes too big and ended up welding the arm to the knuckle. On one or two of the holes, I drilled all the way through and used bolts. Not really the "right" thing to do, as the knuckle is cast, but I haven't seen a single crack or other sign of weakness. When I welded it, I pre-heated the cast Iron, shot penned it after welding, and buried it in sand to allow it to cool slowly.
Brake rotors have some small dents from using a hammer to remove them (when I bought this axle, the wheel bearings and spindles were kinda rusty, hence aforementioned replacement). Pads are about 50% worn.
15" rims will not fit without grinding the calipers. I do not recommend doing this.
I have over $2500 in this axle. Certainly not expecting to get that much out of it. If you are interested, make me an offer.
8-lug High Pinion Driver's drop Ball joint axle from 1979 F250. (Same Brakes and spring spacing as the coveted 78/79 D60) Tubes have thicker wall thickness than the average D44, 3/8" I think. Disc brakes with dual piston calipers.
Yukon 4.88 gears, Full Detroit, Alloy USA inner shafts, Longfield 300M U-joints, Superior EVO series stub shafts, High steer arms on both knuckles, Warn Standard locking hubs. also have a set of drive flanges from a full time 4x4 Wagoneer. Tie rod and drag link made from 1.5" .250 wall DOM with QA1 3/4" heims. Stock Diff cover with a piece of 1/4" plate welded on the front.
I have wheeled on this axle for a little over a year, and since I have owned it I have replaced ball joints, wheel bearings, carrier bearings, and spindles.
The Bad:
When I drilled the passenger side knuckle for the high steer arm, I drilled the holes too big and ended up welding the arm to the knuckle. On one or two of the holes, I drilled all the way through and used bolts. Not really the "right" thing to do, as the knuckle is cast, but I haven't seen a single crack or other sign of weakness. When I welded it, I pre-heated the cast Iron, shot penned it after welding, and buried it in sand to allow it to cool slowly.
Brake rotors have some small dents from using a hammer to remove them (when I bought this axle, the wheel bearings and spindles were kinda rusty, hence aforementioned replacement). Pads are about 50% worn.
15" rims will not fit without grinding the calipers. I do not recommend doing this.
I have over $2500 in this axle. Certainly not expecting to get that much out of it. If you are interested, make me an offer.
KrawltexTed- New Member
- Posts : 90
Join date : 2009-10-22
Age : 37
Location : South Austin/Cedar Park
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